hello thanks for tuning in my name is
Peter I'm the host of the show and today we're gonna be doing a 6s quadcopter
build I'm gonna be using for this build are the Martian 2 255 quadcopter frame
Speedix GS 35 amp BLheli_32 Esc s Emax light spec 2207 2400kv brushless
motors for the flight controller and the Power Distribution board I'm using the
Matek F405 OSD and the Fchub success I'm using 6040 propellers but
you can use propellers of your choice for the control transmitter that can be
personal depending on what you're using Frsky, Spektrum I'm using Spektrum
so I'm going to be using that for the VTX. I have a 5 volt TBS Unify Pro Version 3
and an antenna as well. I'll have an HS 1177 camera and a my instance I'm using
the Foxeer Arrow, for a lipo battery I recommend something in the 1550 to
1800 mah range, 6s, or you can run lower if you want. and in my instance I'm
also trying some XT150 connectors which is completely optional. this part here is
your top plate this is your bottom plate on top of where your VTX or with piggy
tail comes up most, likely your pigtail for the antenna connection and just
reinforces that.
And these are the three bolts that come with it that go
underneath so they basically go like this here's a diagram
you these are for the camera so it's designed for a Runcam Swift the
1177 is for any kind of 1177 i suppose and this is the back plate for the fpv
mount some people choose not to use have some aluminum standoff so two four
six eight now here's the power distribution board
and for the people that may not want to use it, it this does form the part
of this structure of the frame. this goes in between the carbon fiber plate
and this just to insulate it cuz this is made out of some kind of plastic or
something i bethought so that goes in between just
to save it from shorting against the carbon fiber I mean how much is weigh?
nine a half grams.
I'm just gonna give you a
weight on this Martian 2 quadcopter frame and I'm giving you the total of
weight so including everything they give you 4 foamy
landing pads an XTC connector which I've never seen like this before
there's no hole in it just a bit of a concave to it. maybe it makes it easier to solder
in because it's intended to solder in like this, and it plugs in
from the top. so that's the first step let's get this frame all
prepped up. In prepping the frame just make sure that you have the proper tools
so that you're protecting yourself from the carbon fiber dust as it's very bad
for you all right sorry about that last battery
power so I'm just gonna show you this again
disregard Gepetto's quadcopter over here. now let's go back to what I was
originally talking about and that's that's the Martian 2 250 or 255 build.
this is the one that can swing 6-inch propellers, so the largest one. I took the
bottom plate, top plate and forearms and I sanded the corners, I
didn't round them as to take any substantial amount of weight from
the quadcopter.
Just to make it reasonably smooth and not too sharp but
I also sanded the top portion of it because the carbon fiber any carbon
fiber usually comes with a coating and I'm not even sure what type
of coating it is but I also sanded that so that it looked totally pale and
scuffed on the whole thing and then I put on some polymer spray. i believe there's two types of polyurethane, oil-based and water-based, you want to go with. I don't know I'm just using this. I can't make a representation on that or know too much
about this stuff all I know is that it's a spray-on plastic right polyurethane isn't?
here is the top plate this is the front bottom plate front I'm gonna use
this but only in a structural way as it is a structural component.
2 sizes that
we have are 12 millimeter then we have six millimeter. There's 2 already there some leftover done need three for the
antenna support and then I think they give you some additional an additional
three just for just to be nice but I'm just going to do
it like this now what I was saying before is if you're going to use a
flight controller with your own power distribution board then you may want to
just install it with this first and then this takes a little patience here. right
because this is an insulator so what I'm doing is using some
double-sided tape on the arms and I'm covering the holes too as well and as
I'm placing it through the screws and this has to be you got to thinking about
where you put the tape before hand the screws going certain way as I just push
it through now the one the one thing I'm trying to prevent is any sort of
movement vibration .
This is all about vibration dampening and you may get some
this is that two-way clear tape you have any excess just… you can whatever you
want be nice to have this clear two-way tape it's not like the gray scotch type
that we all love it's not quite like that, kinda, it's thinner and now I'm
going to use — see that's pretty good eh — at least when you use some blue loctite
you're gonna have a nice seal I also have some on this part of the
Power Distribution board, now hopefully the screws are gonna be long enough so what
and this will go on top you I already have the the PDB installed now
for the power distribution board that comes with this frame unfortunately it
does form part of the quadcopter structure so you do need it I think but
what I did is because I wasn't using it i sandwich that in the middle between
it's hard to see because I painted this too I have two sets of vibration
dampening bobbins now the flight controller only comes with one so it's a
good thing they sell them separately so I have to set on the ball then I'll set
on the top I changed the standoffs from the purple
25 millimeter ones to these black ones I will shorten this up a little bit but
since I'm going with Foxeer camera this is the Arrow 600 TVL CCD.
I was
supposed to get the version 3 but they sent me this so I'm still gonna use and
plus it's black which is uh which is good keeps the same color scheme now
this is what I hear is that with this camera the only issue is that the the
the microphone picks up a lot of the wind so I may just put a little bit of
sponge in there or something to filter the motors we have the Emax
Lite Spec these are the 22, oh no sorry yeah
2207 2400 kV this will do 6s but I would stick with these if you're going
6s these look really nice well they don't give you an allen key like they
usually give you but they still give you a nice box stickers if you want to do
some advertising for them that's fine I love you Emax I have no problems with
that we have Speedix 35 amp BlHeli_32,
these are the GS 35 amp It can take 2 to 6s this is the Matek flight
controller, the F405 OSD that's complimentary to this board and I have a
team black sheep 5 volt TBS Unify version 3 with
the SMA connector and I'm gonna be using these xt150 connectors.
These vibration
dampening bobbins you only get one set so you get four with the flight controller
now they do sell them separately, at least where I bought them so I bought an extra
set, anyways the point is I put four of these bobbins on the bottom and I just
have just a short screw I forget what the size is just to give you an idea
it's actually just a little bit of pop so maybe three three millimeters
something that that's just enough slotted part is the front this is the
back right and this is this is all done this is all I had what I did in the
front is is I took a that chunk off there's a little bit of a piece of
carbon fiber and I went over here so that I have more room to move the camera up this is I use the side of my iron too a lot and just take it off the actual thing
about to this keep in mind this is big wire, so… always use
pliers or something like that because it's going to get too hot gotta learn how to be ambidextrous here, hold on should be good enough really so I got the wire on here I should have
done this reverse because I have to put these on, these XT150
so for the positive I'll put the small one because you gonna put these on first
this thing and so a bigger one here when I say bigger within the same color
right so now I got a tin the wires on the other
end all right this is kind of dumb because I have to do it this way right
but but these two wires are pretty rigid and I shouldn't have a problem 4
millimeters something like that I guess we should tin it but try not to
tin it too much.
You don't want to overflow but I did exactly what I said you shouldn't now hopefully this clicks in it I've
never used an XT150 before. this time I'm not gonna put as much as I did last cuz you saw what happened these are supposed to pop, and we'll do it when its cooled down give it a nice clean first. I'm may have to
get in there with the some kind of a knife then you have to chisel it out
worst possible scenario not a big deal actually what's good for that is steel
wool but make sure if you're gonna use to a wool make sure you wet it and don't
use it in or around your working area go under the sink because I know I've done
that before.
Steel wool to get excess solder works awesome.
but for big chunks you can just use a knife. just clean that these things are huge let's try the black one first this is
the moment of reckoning right here no clicking there's no clicking looking here
Oh beautiful i didn't know it was gonna happen. amazing. okay see
underneath here if you even put some epoxy or hot glue now this guy I have my
doubts about this okay all I could see when I go through this
yeah I'm gonna issue with this but I'm gonna try nonetheless there's no freakin way all right I've to come back. I have to shave
some of that off. all right I finally got it on, had to do a little bit of hacking
here I couldn't find the steel wool but nonetheless Oh and see how it looks so I got two sets of these
anti-vibration bobbins it only comes with the flight controller
but you can all these for I buy it I can put it separately and every time I make
an order I always just buy a set cuz I know I'll be using it for another build
they're just very convenient i don't have to waste time trying to devise you
know a DIY type of solution but this there's a lot of things you use, prop
adapters, and depending on the gyro you might want
more or less this one for example is 32k gyro it's not the MPU6000
which is not known to be stable very forgiving so that's why I am putting two of these sets yeah red lights there
and it's all good okay so next is the the ESCs and
these are Blheli_32 I guess with these new BlHeli_32
there's also you can get telemetry there's one additional pad in
addition to the faster processing wait these are the GS 35 35 amp yeah I wish it
was 45 but smaller kV motor yeah this is uh holy smokes it's 18 18 gauge just
gonna take these off is the 18 gauge so i'm just going to quickly signal here i'm just going with the flow here, no pun intended this one I have to leave on it was making it come off there you go I'm going to stick this on the very edge here
because I want as short as possible of wire from here to there on your
direct current or DC side of the electronics and then on your AC right so
your motors from the ESC length is not really a big issue
and then this part here you can just you can just cut well you can do that at the very end or
so they say I'm gonna show you know you don't need right so you know
we probably cut it shorter but what I like to do is wrap this around the
neutral wire the ground so just right up against here we're good
try not to press too hard.
If you're going to use zip ties, you can, I'll probably use
some too but just don't tie them too tight
because that's a good way to damage your ESCs you can remove your standoffs if you
want I like to keep them there just so I know where they're gonna be and I work around
them so what we're gonna do now just take the black and measure that out. there's some wire it's 14-gauge you want to give some flexibility let's just say we're just gonna give it a nice clean
already tested with the smoke stopper with these alligator clips here
so next thing is I guess we can solder the ESC pads just to get out of the way and then
we're gonna put the motors on but before we put the motors on we're gonna flash
the flight controller, check to see if there;s anything wrong with it.
Nice motors we'll do this first okay it's a little bit of time, just like
a spare tire there, I should be good all right motors are on I put three on
each I don't use the fourth one for uh just in case the holes don't line out
perfectly for tension relief now three should be getting off some thread Locker
or lock tight. careful not to get any solder on the components ideally you should be testing after every connection and after every soldering joint but I did not okay good. So I'm going to power my camera and vtx with both of these 5v and 10v they are clean power supplies so I'm
gonna this is from the Power Distribution board obviously so I'm
gonna be using the 5 volt and ground for this TBS Unify Pro, the 5 volt
version obviously and I have the 10 volt for the the Foxeer camera that I have all right let's take out the camera the
blue one is called sensor as well as the current sensor, voltage sensor sorry
so that's kind of neat I've never used Foxeer before
I've always used Runcam this is for your OSD then you got your
audio so I'm not going to touch this, I think I'm gonna take that out, the blue one.
then you have your video yellow ground black, red VCC and you got audio
here as well for this this is the nice silicone wire, you can just use your
fingers too. this deserves a new cable
I think I'll have to cut this. this is the antenna this is the part you don't want
to damage right here just in case you don't know there's no stupid questions
around here. so right now I'm just not going to give myself the benefit of the
doubt and cut this very long right now this stuff… you can use
your fingers it's good wire, goood wire. all right all right and then lastly the TBS, oops, I think I'll put on my grounding bracelet i am barefooted and this table is also
grounded so we're all good. Team Black Sheep just put this back in here let me give
you some clear heat shrink an extra one and some sticky stuff.
All right VTX
5 volt. isn't that awesome, and this wire looks, seems, it's not as siliconie
but it seems very heavy duty the only I don't like about this is the UHF L
whatever a connector uhf, not uhf, UFL connector see it was
gonna cut the wrong one there we go okay let's keep down a little tag on there
just a case it's pretty good wire can you can't even cut it like that you have all the
so we have all the wires, we'll tin those wires wanna make these little extra long we're going to be using the audio cable
on this here we go, it's all tinned so negative is the shorter side
the positive is longer side you time to put the ribbon cable on they give you two just in case your ruin one and even
if you do ruin it both of them you can just just use wire instead I'll show you
the diagram for posting up all right we just put this here so this side goes up unhook this
so I just pops out like that see I'm trying to go underneath the black
lip but I don't think you're supposed to don't see any room
so sits right on top of the black, pull through, pop out connector, whatever you wanna call it let's put this in first if you have a SD
card you might as well put that in there it fits right up underneath in there,
so silver it facing up very neatly.
Look at that you might wanna put some O rings on that now I'm going to try the smoke stopper on the flight controller it's all good. okay everything's on
everything's soft mounted I even put some it's like triple, soft mounted in here but I couldn't find any O-rings so I used this Styrofoam stuff cabin Stoppers so I have two sets of Matek vibration dampening bobbins these pups right here which is like this type of material, foamy spongy stuff and finish it off with four nylon bolts
on the top so, cam well again let's try the VTX.
Maybe I'll have some luck there you also work there see this one went in nice
I want to do that one over again I'm gonna try one more time
but that's good enough where's the smart audio go? It will go… transmit 4, right? doesn't matter what transmit does it? this guy right here
right there these guys are easy to get through
that's the way it should be. i'm just gonna use some servo cable tin these up this one went in perfect which didn't go through, but still good enough this thing all right I almost forgot this thing my
Spektrum wire and for SBUS it's the one on the bottom well should be good enough you've got the power right here they're in there and now we're just
gonna bind, it it's never been easier this time I actually have to leave it in
place so you can bind this.
Wow, that's loud well there we go it's flashing this
all right it's only have to do don't worry about this just fix that
later so as its flashing hold this down ooops, going to get throttle high warning there we go, we got a solid green light or
orange light and it's bound I knew some of this thicker solder this
is rosin core 60 40 and you can tell by the
diameter this is 12-gauge wire so I use that for battery connections I don't tend
to use that with the smaller stuff because there's a lot of flux in the
core and tends to make a big mess so we'll start off with the battery
connection so this will be just about how to solder Xt150 connectors so here's my DIY jig. let's get these
batteries done. we're gonna do this one first so what you want to do you have to be
careful okay so this is for entertainment purposes only I assume no
responsibility for what you do or how to interpret this video you are going to hold me harmless and
YouTube and Google and the whole wide world okay for your own negligence and actions
and I'm not responsible.
So for this guy what you need to do is once when you
remove this you have to remove each wire carefully and you have to do it in a way
where each wire becomes isolated right so I'm gonna choose for example I would go for the black first and NEVER do
both at the same time you heard that many times but I'm gonna say it again
so you just want to take at a time then you take this and
wrap it with some electrical tape and in that way here's your isolating it I'm going a little bit overboard here but just
to be so there we go it's isolated now take a
little bit out of here not too much it's perfect we gotta go small so this thing goes in
first like that doesn't leave me much room, does it?
well like I said before you could put some tape in there fold it or just fold
it yourself I'm gonna hold the battery as a base for stability though so when I
hold it or solder it in that's what I'm gonna
be using and now we're gonna use this a really strong way
bigger actions two different sizes just make sure this doesn't short
anywhere right just keeping I'm gonna tin this probably do that I'm not pinching it but I'm just putting
pressure in this wire so there's no tension here obviously you don't want
that and then just pulling it shoot it's hard oh yeah got it.
From there use hot glue or epoxy if your really concerned about shorts these balance leads guys on all your
batteries you should put right in there some epoxy that so that it holds
together because if these come loose and touch each other there's going to be a
fire ok so just like that just like that the same kind of
situation clean this thing what is held this one was easy because there's less
solder to get through got all the batteries done again we're just ready for a maiden
hover here.
It's probably not a good idea I don't recommend trying anything
indoors but I should do a test hover here did you hear? it doesn't even sound like a quad no, It's just my own imagination I think. gotta change my beeper settings at least you know when it's not armed thank you for watching if you did find
this video useful please give it a like subscribe and also share I'll be much
appreciated thank you very much and have a good day